A Quintessential Treasure Trove of African Art and Culture
A side view of the African Heritage House
In early December, my landlady and housemate suggested a daytrip to Alan Donovan’s famous African Heritage House. Being an avid fan of arts and culture, I quickly agreed to join her on this adventure with little to no expectation. What was to follow was an enlightening journey through the history of our ancestors and their neighbours, near and far.
His passing had just been announced on the news and she had been meaning to visit the house for a very long time. Although it would have been best done earlier, this was a little nudge to do it already. Alan Donovan was an American who fell deeply in love with African Art, Culture and Heritage. He soon became a collector of sculptures, paintings, textiles and jewellery from tribes all around the continent. Later he met and partnered with a fellow African art enthusiast and Kenya’s 2nd Vice-President, Joseph Murumbi (whose personal collection now graces the walls and floors of the Nairobi Gallery). Donovan and Murumbi then opened the African Heritage Gallery in Nairobi’s central business district, which also consisted of a restaurant and library, and was located where I&M bank sits now. Thoughts of such a nostalgic time in our capital’s history cause a tinge of desiderium…if only we could time travel.
If you haven’t heard about this elegantly domineering ode to the mud house mosques of old Timbuktu architecture, it is yet likely that you’ve seen a photograph of it or one taken within its walls. The African Heritage House is famed as the continent’s most photographed house! From gracing magazine covers far and wide, featuring in news articles, to serving as a set for models and photographers.
In fact, the first time I recall hearing of this house was on the pages of a magazine article that was calling for its preservation as a national monument. At the time, the SGR project threatened to rip this unique building from its roots, with claims that it sat on land meant for the expansion of the railroad. Now the house is in full view for passengers aboard trains as they roll by, reminding them of the history and splendour packed in this magnificent piece of architecture.
Finding the house was a bit of an exercise, what with the ongoing road construction of the Nairobi Expressway and it’s rather confusing diversions. We took a wrong turn or two along the way and had to ask some of the locals for directions. Though it first didn’t seem obvious to them what we were looking for, they soon pointed to a narrow path that led to the famed house.
On arrival, we found a big open lot and you could already see the back of the house. Before it, a little walkway lined with walls donned in stark geometric patterns. It didn’t seem like a busy day for guests but you could see some of the staff around the compound. Maybe it was the knowledge of his recent passing that created a sort of somber mood and made the place feel a little empty and quiet.
After a cup of tea, we were introduced to our guide for the day. A tall, slim lady in ripped skinny jeans, an Ankara shirt and a matching square-shaped cap. She had a rather large portable radio hooked under her arm, which I found quite curious. It made sense when she pressed play and the cassette tape revived an image of Mr. Donovan through his calm and raspy voice as he describes the surroundings. We later learned that he would personally give the tour to guests, but as he got older and of ill-health it made sense to have a back up plan.
The tour begins at the pool-house lined with sculptures by a variety of renowned African artists, pioneers like Francis Nnagenda (Uganda) and the Kenyan sculptor-extraordinaire, Magdalene Odundo, whose pottery I can only dream of owning one day. Artists who were at the dawn of their careers in a newly independent Kenya and in whose work we catch glimpses of a time passed.
Francis Nnagenda’s striking art piece
Facing the pool is a monumental wooden sculpture by Francis Nnagenda himself, it grabs your attention not only because of how massive it is but the slightly exaggerated way in which he carves the human form. Inside the washroom are framed paintings by the father of Tinga Tinga art, Edward Saidi of Tanzania. They are characteristically colourful and playful, creating an artmosphere of sunny exuberance.
Next stop: We marvel at the face of African Heritage House, overlooking the National Park. We soon find out that in the early years, herds of wildebeest would carpet the grounds ahead and create an epic view. Over time, fewer wild animals got close to the house, especially as the surrounding area was developed into residential flats and the railway line was built.
Before entering the house caped with vibrant, blossoming bougainvillea bushes of multiple colours, we make a quick stop at this stunning 'umbrella tree'. It’s the perfect spot to escape the harsh sun rays quite common in areas like Mlolongo. It’s not only a very shady tree, but its branches curve downwards almost touching the ground.
We take a few pictures at the entrance, and start the house tour. The living area is a maximalist style, the kind of house you would expect an art collector to have. Every nook and cranny is an opportunity to display furniture, a photograph, distinctive traditional beads and jewellery. There is even a glass cabinet that contains little gold pendants.
The most fascinating thing about taking a mini-tour of Africa through this house, is the sheer diversity in tastes, colours and textures that inhabit this continent. Influences that crossed borders and others that were shipped in, altered over time to fit the new owner’s aesthetic! A thought that continued to recur in my mind is how sad it is that we hardly learn about these aspects of our heritage. How people lived, dressed, ate and adorned themselves before us. Before colonialism.
A bourgainvillea capture with our guide for the day
The paintings and photographs on the walls are an impressive archive of fashionable bead wear, unusual art canvasses and stories of what was considered beautiful in one culture as opposed to another. Like a Ghanaian carving of a voluptuous woman on her wedding day, our guide even made a joke about how low our chances of getting a husband would have been in that time and place. I felt so inspired to create my own wear, and imagined what a haven of inspiration spaces like these could be for creative people, especially visual artists, fashion designers and even story tellers.
The house also featured a Swahili style, indoor garden like the ones you would see in Lamu; and the bedrooms (available for homestays) represent different communities. My favorite was the Swahili room and its bathroom with cute little curved coves, like little windows for placing your shower gel and such. I won’t tell too much because it’s a lot more gratifying to see it yourself.
Our history is so rich, we owe it to ourselves to learn as much as we can about it and find pieces of the puzzle that makes us unique, beautiful and intriguing. I highly recommend a visit to the African Heritage House (as I look for a gap in my calendar to finally visit the Nairobi Gallery).
I’ll be back here to tell you all about it!
